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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.